Cornucopia is the word that best describes the Oaxacan cuisine. The variety of dishes reflects the astonishing geographic, biological and ethnic diversity of the state territory. For example there are 7 kinds of mole, the largest tortillas known (tlayuda) and two classics for breakfast throughout Mexico: entomatadas (chicken or eggs filled tortillas covered with a thick tomato sauce) and enfrijoladas (chicken or eggs filled tortillas covered with a thick beans sauce); and everything, even ants and grasshoppers, can be found in a nutritious and delicious dish.
Just as in the rest of Mexico, the gastronomy is based on corn and some other vegetables but meats have an important role. Up by the sierras chicken and turkey are the most common whereas beef and pork are popular in the valleys. Closer to the Pacific shore it is fish, seafood and even iguana, the most known meals.
Oaxacan artisans are known all over by their detailed-to-perfection works of art and, if cooking is an art, it is not a surprise that Oaxacan cuisine is so meticulous in its preparation, colorful, varied and, above all, intense in aromas and flavors. Whether you like to start your day with a coffee or with a chocolate, make sure it is Oaxacan and prepare your palate for a culinary adventure without parallel. Dining in Oaxaca will be a delightful experience.
Doña Elpidia
You will not find an advertisement indicating the entrance, neither the sophistication of a common restaurant. The waiter will not come to your table to offer you the menu. Dona Elpidia is modesty to begin with. She cooks for her family and she serves anyone crossing the doorway as part of it. It has been like that for 40 years, during which she has given home cooking' a delicious hospitable meaning, becoming the best kept secret in the city.
El Biche Pobre
This family Oaxaca restaurant has prevailed as a typical gastronomy landmark. Do not miss the sampler botana Oaxaquena' that in spite of the name is a banquet in itself. Try to arrive early if you go on weekends, Oaxacans are not known for wasting their treasures. There are three branches, the first one is on Calzada de la Republica.
El Che
Located in an elegant modernist hall with privileged view on Santo Domingo Church, El Che will cheerfully bring the best cuts in the city and other Argentinean and Italian specialties. Enjoy impeccable service and a soft casual ambience. To go with there is an ample wine selection.
El Naranjo
Famous among travelers for its quality and price and internationally acclaimed for the creativity in its dishes. El Naranjo specializes in rescuing old Oaxacan family recipes adding a contemporary touch to them. They are served under an orange tree in the cool patio of an old house, steps south of the zocalo. The ample menu includes 7 moles, organic salads and excellent seafood.
El Tio Guero
Ideal for lunch, this Oaxaca restaurant will make you feel at home with the personal attention of its owners and flavorful family tradition dishes. The menu consists of three courses and fruit water for a preset modest price. The picturesque patio is decorated with original art from Oaxacan artists and it is for sale. It is located in Carmen Alto area.
La Casa de la Abuela
Skillfully executed traditional dishes, such as three kinds of mole, and its privileged location on the second floor corner of the zocalo, turn this restaurant into a classic one in tourist guides. You will have beautiful views of San Felipe rock and the colorful activity of downtown from your table.
La Toscana
This restaurant, in picturesque Jalatlaco neighborhood, is located in an old house remodeled in minimalist rustic style. The menu is an exquisite surprise of contemporary Italian fusion with regional accents from Oaxaca. A central patio with fountain and soft lights create a peacefully romantic ambience, elegantly unforgettable. Wine selection is about the best in town.
Las Tlayudas de Libres
The peculiar schedule of this eatery on Libres street is not the strangest thing (it opens at 10:00 p.m. and closes at 5:00 a.m.); the most demanded dish is prepared right on cinders and it is eaten with the hands. Tlayudas' are basically a popular meal consisting of a big crunchy tortilla, with a spread of beans puree, cabbage and shredded chicken or beef tenderloin. There is an hour early in the morning when the street in front seems to be a parking lot.
Los Danzantes
This is a more sophisticated version of the famous Coyoacan restaurant in Mexico City. It occupies a recently restored 16th century house backyard, on Alcala street. The modern architectonic concept includes adobe walls, pressed steel blocks, a minimalist fountain and a wooden solarium covered by bougainvillea. The lounge ambience is the perfect frame for succulent creations of the contemporary Mexican cuisine.
20 de Noviembre Market
Dining in Oaxaca is incomplete if you don't visit the 20 de Noviembre market. The complete market, almost, is consecrated to food trade, raw as well as processed. West alley hosts beef and pork tenderloin and sausages vendors, selling in the traditional way. Once chosen, the meat will be thrown to cinders and they will sell onions, coriander, avocado, lime, chili, tomato and tortillas. If you wish, a woman can prepare a delicious guacamole with these ingredients.